I agree, it is a great ocean road.

A view of the Bay of Islands north of Port Campbell.

We flew to Melbourne primarily to drive the "Great Ocean Road" built after WWI by Aussie vets to honor their fallen comrades.  It traverses the edge of a steep coastline bordering the Bass Strait. Here we were treated to magnificent views of the rocky shore and pounding surf.  Many a ship has wrecked in these waters for clearly evident reasons.  We took our time heading west along the road stopping frequently for photos, gaping at the scenery and pausing to take in the sounds of the waves.  We picnicked on a beach and walked alone near the Kennett River to admire koalas resting in the trees.  We drove in and out of the various viewing points to see the massive rock stacks called the Twelve Apostles.

At the suggestion of a local hotel owner, we visited a site called London Bridge at dusk to observe little penguins. We made our way to the platform high above the beach where only a handful of visitors were enjoying the final vistas before sunset and the rise of a full moon.  As it got dark, we were alone, waiting and waiting. It seemed ridiculous at some point. What could we see in such darkness? Where were all the other tourists? Was this recommendation merely a hoax?

After several tentative moves to leave, we squinted down at the beach and applauded...a dozen little penguins washed up in the surf and they were making the way to the safety of their nests.  Amazing! More penguins washed in later waves.  They huddled close together to make the journey and avoid predators.

When it was over, we had to ask ourselves – did that really happen? Did we witness this marvel of nature here on this beach without sharing it with busloads of others?

This Great Ocean Road was built as a memorial to deceased war heroes, but for us it will always hold the memory of living creatures surviving life's rough conditions.

Pure Elation

Here's a brochure for the trip we did. And we actually saw this fish!

Anyone who knows me is probably aware that I am a bit of a wimp when it comes to physical activities. So when we decided to do a boat excursion to see the Great Barrier Reef (30K off-shore), I selected a cruise that offered several opportunities to look into the water without actually getting wet (by viewing through a glass bottomed boat or riding in a semi-submersible craft with lots of windows below the water line).

My husband Michael was determined to snorkel while at the reef. But I assumed it would be beyond my reach since I wear eye glasses and would not be able to see with goggles.

After meeting and talking with a marine biologist on board, I decided to leap in --beginning with a 30-minute introductory class. The instructor Courtney was a gem and opened an underwater world to me into which I could never envision myself.

After mastering the skill of breathing with the snorkel, Courtney took us on a guided swim pointing out various types of coral, fish and other sea creatures.

Much to my amazement I could see perfectly well under water. When the group lesson was over we bid farewell to Courtney, then Michael and I took off to explore on our own. My first foray was not without challenge but it was definitely exhilarating. After a few big snorts a salt water I needed a break.

Next we rode in the semi-submersible. It was fabulous. We saw big schools of fish, a few small sharks, many different corals and giant clams.  After lunch we suited up again and went snorkeling for another hour or so. Now much more comfortable in the water we went to the perimeters of the observation area. Some of the coral were very colorful (those closer to the sunlight and younger) and some looked dead or damaged from recent storms. We spotted an array of fish that we recognized from our Reef Teach lecture the evening before.  Michael even found the well-disguised (but poisonous) rock fish. We got out of the water just in time to shower, change and warm up before the big catamaran returned us to Caines. 

It was one of the best days of my life and I continue to contemplate how to spend more time snorkeling.

Within and Above the Rain Forest

While in northern Queensland, we journeyed on the Kuranda Scenic Railroad into the rain forest. This rail line was built between 1887 and 1891 to provide gold seekers access into the mountains and the lands beyond.  In its day it was quite a feat of engineering -- climbing 328 meters through a thick forest.  Even today for the railroad enthusiast it is a marvel with 37 kilometers of track including 15 tunnels, 37 bridges and requiring 98 curves including one memorable 180 degree bend to make the distance.  For the average visitor, it is the captivating vistas of forest, the Barron River and its magnificent waterfalls, the coastline and the South Coral Sea that make the experience.

The scenery from the train was impressive but it paled to what we enjoyed on our return trip aboard the Skyrail, a gondola ride above the rain forest canopy with stops at the falls and its high point.  From the gondola we enjoyed magnificent views in every direction. At one of the stops, a naturalist provided some interpretive information about these woods filled with trees some numbering over 400 years old, plants with healing properties and unusual and threatened species of animals.

Awesome is beginning to take on a new meaning for me here.

It's hard to believe it's a hat.

When we were researching Australia in advance of our travels we learned a lot about this island nation.  It has big urban centers, a wide range of arts and culture, grand landscapes, unique and strange animals, amazing coral reefs and we read its people are friendly, outdoorsy, and optimistic. 

Somehow I totally missed the fact that Sydney is also an up and coming style center.  I was amazed to find Oxford Street in Paddington lined with designer shops offering original 

creations and custom clothing.  Evidently this trend is not confined to Sydney as we also saw designer shops in Brisbane including one hat shop that created fashions suitable for British royalty.